Thread: Bleediing 2012 XT?
11-04-12, 13:13 #1
Bleediing 2012 XT?
Well actually just topping up the fluid.
I don't know how to use the Bleed screw/port at the top of the reservoir lid.
I have air in the system. Cable tying the lever back over night works OK for 5 mins, then the air gets back in - clearly I need to do that and top up the fluid before releasing the lever. Can I just undo the screw on the bleed port and add fluid, or do I need a special syringe to press some innards to get the oil in?
Any tips or links to instructions would be appreciated.
11-04-12, 15:34 #2
11-04-12, 21:48 #3
All you need now is to find somewhere with one in stock......
If you need to borrow one just shout.
Ps: if you know what you're doing you only need the funnel thingy.
Last edited by Nobby; 11-04-12 at 21:51.
12-04-12, 06:04 #4
12-04-12, 06:42 #5
Blimey, they've been out of stock for months.
Ideally you should use a bit of plastic tube & a bag/pot as well but you can ignore the steps on that techdoc involving the syringe. If I can do it, *anyone can.
*Alx excluded, obviously.
12-04-12, 08:14 #6
I shouldn't laugh I'm not a mechanical genius myself.
I ordered the fluid & tube - and managed to get a syringe off ebay for £2.
I imagine Nobby your syringe less technique just means having a pot full of fluid at the claiper end - but how do you pump the fluid through...?
12-04-12, 08:22 #7
Using Jedi mind powers.
TBH, if you take a bit of time & follow the instructions you'll find any air in them will find its way out through the caliper or up into the funnel. The front's a doddle, the rear takes a bit longer.
The syringe is really meant for first time installation i.e. when there's no oil in the system at all.
12-04-12, 09:57 #8
The secret is to hang the bike up in your workstand in such a way that the hose runs up to the lever from the calliper, and loosen the lever clamp so it's level.
Then (with in your case the funnel attached) flick the hose, jiggle the lever blade (don't bother tying it on overnight), and most importantly... ... go to bed.
In the morning give the lever a few little pulls, the last bubbles will have found their way to the top overnight.
For added bonus points push the pistons back fully before refitting the bleed screw, otherwise come new pad time the brakes will drag.
13-04-12, 07:53 #9
2012 and they need bleeding ?
Off my list of brakes.
13-04-12, 08:02 #10
Slack effort on behalf of the seller rather than poor quality. In fact DM, even running 160mm they are superior to my previous Hope M4 203/180 combo by a long chalk.
13-04-12, 22:41 #11
Hate to say it Kev but my XT 180/160 setup beats the old M4 203/180 too :s
14-05-12, 20:24 #12
- Join Date
- Jul 2004
For this forum a revival could be considered zombie-like. Messianic, even...
This little yellow funnel thingamajig you write of - fancy posting a linky please.
14-05-12, 20:32 #13
14-05-12, 20:39 #14
- Join Date
- Jul 2004
Catweasle? : )=
I found that, just didn't think it was for the latest brake. I sit corrected...
14-05-12, 21:42 #15
Well XTs may be on the list seeing as the last time I ordered a small bottle of mineral oil I got a litre. Thanks CRC :-)
15-05-12, 07:16 #16
These are most excellent if you can find one.....
15-05-12, 10:54 #17
Some web sites are not that clear as to what they are selling, hose length one of the issues.
I take it they, before any adaptors, are 160 front post mount and 160 rear IS mount.
15-05-12, 10:55 #18
Any one use the i mount jobbies ?
15-05-12, 12:40 #19
AFAIK they are both post mount & 160 as standard (the rear with an adapter from PM to IS)
Hose lengths are 1000mm front & 1700mm rear and the kits come with little blocks and spare olives etc to help trim hoses - well the XTR did. If you google Shimano hose shortening you shold find a guide or two to do it without bleeding the entire system.
15-05-12, 12:44 #20
What Nobby said is the same for my recent XT. Dalesman I have a rear 180 adaptor if you need one, yours for a fiver or so.
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